Gokova
Gulf
Possessing several beautiful bays, the Gulf of Gokova
begins at Hüseyin Burnu adjacent to Turgut Reis and ends
at Iskandil Burnu at the end of Datça Peninsula. That
is, you will be sailing along a recess which is 60 nautical
miles long from W to E between these two points. The Greek
island of Kos otherwise known as Istankoy Adasi is situated
at the entrance of this gulf.
In
sailing out of Bodrum Harbor on your Blue Voyage, you may
set a direct course for Knidos and Tekir Burnu, or else
proceed along the bay-indented coastline of the Gulf of
Gokova. Vessels setting out from Bodrum to visit Gokova
navigate past Karaada, famous for its hot springs and known
in ancient times as Arkanessos, then Fabuç Burnu,
to arrive at Kargicik Koyu. Before reaching this point,
you will see a small island called Kistak that you can maneuver
past on either side, but care must be taken to avoid the
small rocky islet to the N of the island. Yachts may anchor
on its S side of Kargicik, which is a nice, large bay. Taking
a swim in its crystal-clear water is a distinct pleasure.
Before Kargicik Koyu is Orak Adasi, where there are two
bays, one to the E and the other to the N. The best anchorages
are along the NW side. Leaving here, you sail past Kara
Burun to reach Alaksla Koyu, prior to which you will see
Yildiz Adasi, whereby you should navigate your vessel close
to the island and the mainland. It is possible to anchor
off the SW point of the bay. After leaving Alakisla Koyu,
you will cruise by Tekerek Limani, 11gm Limani and Kargili
to finally arrive in Cokertme Koyu, which is the best anchorage
around. This spot is surrounded by pine woods and olive
groves and provides shelter from the prevailing winds. Inside
the bay is the village of Cokertme, the W side of which
is a decent anchorage point.
Departing
Cokertme, you will arrive at Camalti Koyu, the jetty for
Oren where you may visit the ruins of Keramos. Located 48
km. from Milas, this Carian city can be reached overland
as well. The modern town of Oren is situated over the ancient
city of Keramos. Though we don’t know exactly when
it was founded, Keramos goes back to at least the 5th century
B.C. as it was a member of the Delian Confederacy.
Pulling
out of Oren and proceeding 6.5 nautical miles past Kara
Burun, you will sail into Akbük Limani. Situated at
the foot of thickly wooded mountains. Akbük is a very
decent harbor which offers shelter against W and NW winds.
There is a cafe and a restaurant here and one may anchor
on the jetty before the harbor or else W of it. From here
one may proceed to Gokova Iskelesi, the extreme end of the
Gulf of Gokova.
Encircled
by emerald green mountains, one never tires of the beauty
of Gokova. There are two concrete jetties here and one may
anchor in front of the bay. If you are planning to travel
to Marmaris from here by car, you shall be able to gaze
from the road
Knidos
Pulling out of Mersincik Limani and steering past Tekir Bükü,
you will maneuver past lskandil Burnu to arrive in the small
harbor of Knidos, which is the final bay along the Aegean
seaboard. This was military harbor of Knidos, whereas the
ancient geographer and historian Strabon from central Anatolia
once wrote that 20 ships were able to moor here simultaneously.
Warships once entered the harbor through a corridor to manuever
past two round-shaped control towers at the narrowest spot.
Please take note that the harbor on the N side of the isthmus
is clogged with silt and with a draft of one meter is too
shallow for even the smallest of boats. The actual harbor
in use today is on the opposite side of the isthmus which
is reached by navigating around Deveboynu Burnu. and its lighthouse,
which can be seen as far as the entrance, The harbor entrance
is 160 m. wide and one should approach the dock keeping clear
of the ancient breakwaters. The one on the SW side is still
in good condition, but the one in the NE side is submerged
and can only be seen as a greenish-brown smudge under the
water. Yachts can moor lines to the wooden jetties situated
in front of the ancient city of Knidos. Draft in front of
these jetties is down to 3.5 in., so you should be able to
moor here without any trouble. In addition, you can easily
drop anchor either in front of the theater inside the bay
or else across from it. In addition to the ancient structures
here, there is also a restaurant, an excavation bureau and
storage facilities as well as a gendarmes station. The main
harbor becomes unusable whenever severe gusts from the S and
SE blow in. The road coming from Datça ends at the
harbor. Moor your vessel in the main harbor of ancient Knidos
and thoroughly enjoy the history and sea.
Mersincik
If
you are sailing in from the N side of the Gulf of Gökova,
Mersincik Limani is the final anchorage point after Körmen.
It is 1.5 nautical miles SE of Mersincik Adasi. The bay is
ringed with high mountains with woods, whereas the village
of Mersincik is situated in the S point. Sailing past the
N or S of Mersincik Adalari, you will enter Mersincik Limani,
which is exposed to the NE. There is an anchorage spot right
behind the cape to the W at the entrance. The draft at the
entrance is 15 in., which drops to 4 m. by the time you reach
the end of the harbor. Although the draft in front of the
small pebbled beach is 6-10 in., the bottom is of loose sand,
rendering this spot inappropriate for anchoring. However,
the NE and SW parts of the shore are more suitable for dropping
anchor. From here, let’s sail for the famous ancient
city of Knidos.
Seven
Islands
It
is as though Mother Nature has spread some intricate lacework
in these parts, with the scenery around Yedi Adalar enchanting
enough for those on a Map of Yedi Adalar. ‘Blue Voyage’
to explore the many inland bays. After coming out of Tuzla
Koyu, you can set a course for Yedi Adalar, passing Hirsiz
Koyu and going beyond Teke Burnu and Teke Koyu.
We
wanted to view this wide bay, known as ‘Yedi Adalar,’
as there are seven islands of various sizes, from the mainland.
What we noticed was that the unbelievable beauty is as hidden
from the mainland as it is from the sea. The panoramic collage
of green woodland and deep blue water works its magic to take
on the hue of turquoise.
Tuzla
Bay
Tuzla
Koyu is 2.5 nautical miles E of Koyun Burnu, which is marked
on the chart with a lighthouse. This bay is in the shape of
a deep inlet that extends E. You need to pay heed to the small
islet as yojnter the bay. The Karamuk Kayaliklari are situated
at t e other point, and it is difficult to make out these
shoals on the surface of the water. Small boats can drop anchor
in the lake at the end of Tuzla Koyu and tie up on shore facing
E. Though Tuzla Koyu is very calm and is closed off from winds,
it does get an occasional gust in from the NE. Once entering,
you can moor in any of several coves inside the bay. After
tying up your vessel in the S quadrant of the bay, swimming
in the crystal-clear water is a pleasure in itself. You cannot
steer between the mainland and the small island in front of
the bay, however, you can maneuver around either side of the
island, which is in the middle.
There
is the Tuz Gölü (Salt Lake) to the left of the entrance
to Tuzla Koyu, and it is because of Tuz Gölü that
this place was named ‘Tuzla Koyu.’ Today, sea
water mixes with that of Tuz Gölü rendering it unsuitable
for extracting the sun-dried salt. The area which was scorched
during the forest fires that raged through here four years
ago can be seen in a naked and melancholy manner. The conflagration
wiped out all the laurel trees in the bay, whereas the leaves
of these trees were harvested and sold commercially, Styrax
and pine trees are found at the very back
of the bay. Although the right side of the bay is a blackened
hulk, the left side was spared from the fire, which puts a
smile on our face. The mud at the bottom of the bay is of
a consistency that does not hold anchors. Moreover, vessels
cannot enter and cannot drop anchor in the inner part of Tuzla
Koyu, which is a natural bay.
Kargili
Bay
Kargili
Koyu, which has a wide mouth, gradually narrows to a point
where it seemingly buries itself into the mainland. Closed
off to all winds, this bay, which is surrounded with pine,
eucalyptus and styrax trees spread out like a broadcloth,
is a great anchorage spot. There are two streams which flow
into the bay. It is suitable to drop anchor anywhere in this
bay, but in front of these streams, You can tie a mooring
line around one of the pine trees up on shore.
Ingiliz
Limani ( English Harbour )
Is
a magnificent anchorage place.Accrding to local tradition
part of the British fleet concealed itself here during the
World War I .
Sehir
Islands
Seven
nautical miles SW of Gokova Pier, at a spot near Çamli
Limani are three islands known as Sehir Adalari. The larger
of these, which are situated between Çapa Burnu and
Domuz Burnu, is Saray Adasi or Cleopatra Island, as it is
called by the locals. It is also shown on nautical charts
as Sehir Adasi or Sedir Adasi. The other two islets are called
Orta(Yuan) and Kucuk (Kale).
There
are remnants from the ancient city of Cedrai on the big island.
It is said that the Egyptian Queen Cleopatra basked on the
beach and to feel more at home, she had Marc Antony bring
sand all the way from Egypt. While it is true that the sand
here has an unusual consistency, it was not shipped in all
the way from Egypt as the popular legend goes, but rather
of a peculiar calcium carbonate formation not found anywhere
else in the region.

Cökertme
Çökertme, which is a bay situated in
front of a village of the same name. Old maritime charts indicate
this bay, which is situated between Kepce Burnu and Kara Burun,
used to be called Fesliyen Koyu. Island pine woods and olive
groves cover the low mountains and hills surrounding the bay.
Positioned 7.5 nautical miles from Alakisla Koyu, one enters
Çökertme Koyu by navigating past Kepce Burnu.
Due
to a wide recess which has formed between the mountains, Çökertme
Koyu offers shelter from all winds. However, the bay, which
is exposed to the 5, receives an occasional big wave or two.
In departing Çökertme Koyu, you can set a course
for Çamalti Bükü via Kara Burun.
Orak
Island
One
of the larger islands in the Gulf of Gökova is Orak Adasi,
which lies in the approach to Kargicik Bükü. The
name most probably comes from the fact that the end of the
island resembles a sickle. Orak Adasi is located about five
nautical miles E of Kara Ada and in front of Pabuc Burnu,
whereas its W and N shores are spotless.
Also,
a good place to drop anchor would be the bay located on the
E side of the island, which is sheltered from N and W winds.
There is a small islet situated in front of the bay. The bay
can be entered by approaching from the N of
the island and navigated past this small islet. Rocks surround
the entire island as well as the bay. You can drop anchor
in 4-5 m. of water and tie a mooring line around one of the
rocks lining the shore of this bay, which is a decent anchorage
spot. There is a small inlet located next to this bay which
is also suitable for dropping anchor. These small inlets offer
you some privacy whereas you can take a refreshing dip in
the sea whenever your heart desires.
Yildiz
Adasi is situated in front of Alakisla Bükü, which
is situated three nautical miles NE of Orak Adasi. The seabed
at Alakisla Bükü doesn’t hold anchor. Although
a harsh meltem blows through this bay, which is exposed to
the 5, it offers shelter against N and W winds.
Bodrum
Bodrum, the native homeland of the famous historian
Herodotus, is one of Turkey’s most important tourism
centers, which attracts attention by virtue of its natural
beauty.
We
know that the native inhabitants, namely the Lelegians and
the Carians, lived in the hills above the Bodrum Peninsula.
In fact, although there are very few remnants extant, it has
been determined that a number of Lelegian cities such as Termera,
Pedesa, Thangela, Syengela, Myndos and Telmissus existed above
the peninsula. In the Iliad, Homer tells us that the Lelegians,
who were under the command of Altes, as well as the Carians,
under the command of Nartes fought on the side of the Trojans
during the Trojan Wars of ca. 1200 B.C.
After
the Turks entered Anatolia in 1071, they ater began establishing
provinces in the regions they had settled. As a matter of
fact, the Turks under command of Mentese Beytook over this
region and the established the Mentese Province in 1274. This
area was put under Ottoman rule once and for all during the
reign of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent
As
we mentioned at the beginning of this chapter, not much remains
to this day of Halicarnassos as it is buried under the modern
town of Bodrum. The theater on the hill belongs to the Mausolos
period. Excavation and restoration work of the theater has
been carried out, whereby 30 rows of seating in the lower
section were brought to light. On the S slope of the theater,
the upper section of which is heavily damaged, you can encounter
rock tombs belonging to the Hellenistic and Roman Periods.
Ancient sources reveal that 1) the Temple of Mars and the
stoa of Apollo are under the road in front of the theater.
2) the Temples of Hermes and Aphrodite were situated on both
sides of Kaplankale, across from the castle and 3) there was
the palace of King Mausolos where the mosque is located, in
the square in front of the castle. Today, the Myndos Gate,
which was a portion of the wall that once surrounded the city,
can be seen on the road to Gumbet The castle, which has become
the symbol of modern day Bodrum, was built by the Knights
of Rhodes in the year 1402. It measures 180 x 185 m. and its
first battlements were erected by German architect Heinrich
Schlegolholt. Later on, the castle was reinforced with the
Italian, French, English, German Towers as well as the Snake
Tower. There are a total of 249 coat-of-arms found throughout
the castle walls. The Turks captured it in 1 523, whereas
today, it serves as the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology.
In the adjacent garden, you are bound to encounter numerous
peacocks which seemingly stand guard over the treasures, not
terribly unlike their Beefeater counterparts at the Tower
in London.
There
are not many Turkish edifices in Bodrum. The famous Bodrum
boats or gulet as they are known in Turkish were constructed
during the Ottoman Period in a shipyard just beyond the yacht
marina. Today, the manufacture of these fine wooden vessels
continues in this area. There is the tomb of Kaptan-i Derya
Kizilhisarli Mustafa Pasha and his son Cafer Pasha situated
where this shipyard is located. There is also the mosque in
the quay square that was built by Mustafa Pasha in 1720. The
Pasha’s steward also had the Tepecik Mosque built. Erected
in 1769, the Haci Molla Inn survives to this day. but not
in its original fashion.
Bodrum
is one of the traditional points of embarkment for Blue Voyagers
whereas its many bars, cafes, clubs and restaurants offer
countless opportunities for fun until the crack of dawn.
There
are several sites of ruins around the Bodrum Peninsula. For
example, you may visit the ancient city of Heracleia, which
was established on top of a hill overlooking Bafa Gölü.
There you will see the Temple of Athena, which was erected
during the Hellenistic Age. Also, 12 km. outside of Milas,
on the side of the road, you will encounter the Temple of
Euromos Zeus with its 6 x 11 colonnade. It was erected during
the Roman Age. Also, the Labranda Ruins, which are 13 km.
outside Milas, are quite impressive as well. In addition,
Iasos, which is situated in the village of Kiyikislacik is
worth a visit.
Reference
: "Paradise Preserved" by Ilhan Aksit
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